New Fragrance of Note — Vanilla & Anise by Jo Malone

Allow me to tell you a little secret: I often go to Holt Renfrew for no other reason than to spray myself with Jo Malone Cologne. I high-tail it past the innovative window displays, scoot past the Creed counter, and march past Kiehl’s... And while a bevy of irresistibly touchable Gucci and Marni bags beckon to my right, and racks and racks of Prada and Bamford & Sons suits are lined up to my left, I resist them all. When I need my fix of Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin or Sweet Lime & Cedar even the new shipment of Ralph Lauren ties needs to wait. There, I’ve said it. RALPH LAUREN takes a back seat when I want to smell good. Imagine my joy to learn that Jo Malone is adding another cologne to their already impressive collection. Introducing Vanilla & Anise.

Vanilla is one of the most important and valuable ingredients in the perfume industry; however, in the past few years it has been used in a dubious way. Instead of adding depth and exoticism to fragrances, the trend has been for perfumers to use vanilla the same way a baker would. The term “I could just eat you up” isn’t meant to be literal, is it? You shouldn’t really smell edible, should you? That shouldn’t be your thing... should it? Look what happened to Hansel and Gretel. While the aroma of marshmallows, chocolate bars and freshly baked cookies is delicious, it isn’t necessarily refined or elegant. Have you ever really respected someone who’s smelled like a sugar cookie? Keebler Elves are adorable, but you don’t want them to rebrand your business. Vanilla & Anise is a wildly heady and dramatic example of how vanilla could be (and should be) used.

Upon contact with the skin, Vanilla & Anise smells like nothing I’ve ever tried before. The licorice combination of star anise and wild fennel flower immediately pops, and then folds into layers of white flowers like oleander, tuberose and frangipani. All the while, the base of vanilla, amber and cloves opens up as it warms on the skin. The blend of vanilla and white flowers is really quite brilliant, actually. The vanilla adds a creamy lusciousness to the flowers, while the flowers make the vanilla more abstract and mysterious. The scent promises to transport you to the flowering valleys of Madagascar! While I’ve never had a chance to visit the island, I’m now convinced it smells divine.

Jo Malone is famous for creating deceptively simple scents that can be worn alone or layered with other colognes from the line. They call this process Fragrance Combining. Vanilla & Anise would be great in combination with a bright citrus like Grapefruit Cologne, or the earthy Vetyver Cologne. Of course, the sky is the limit. There are endless combinations that could appeal to you and provide you with a personalized scent. Jo Malone is also famous for inventing classic scents that are suitable for men and women, like the venerable Lime Basil & Mandarin. Vanilla & Anise is definitely not unisex (or at least not in my opinion). It is very feminine, luxurious and sensual.

Bottom line: I could see a very feminine woman of any age wearing this scent, either lightly (or in combination with citrus) during the day, or a little more boldly at night. It’s an exotic and confident blend that is very modern without being trendy. 

The breakdown: Top notes — Sicilian Bergamot, Tunisian Neroli, Wild Fennel, Star Anise. Middle notes — Oleander, Tuberose, Frangipani, Purple Vanilla Orchid. Base notes — Madagascar Clove, White Amber, Vetiver Bourbon, Vanilla Bourbon Absolute, Tonka

Vanilla & Anise Cologne 30 mL — $70

Vanilla & Anise Cologne 100 mL —$118

Available exclusively in Canada at Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfrew.com),

and at www.jomalone.com